Installing Ceramic or Porcelain Tile

• Clean the subfloor: Ensure the subfloor is clean, level, and free of debris. Remove any old flooring or adhesives. If necessary, sand or level out any uneven spots.
• Install backer board (optional): For a durable, moisture-resistant base, install cement backer board (especially for bathrooms, kitchens, or areas with high moisture). Screw the backer board to the subfloor and tape over the seams with fiberglass mesh tape.

• Ceramic or porcelain tiles
• Thin-set mortar
• Notched trowel
• Tile spacers
• Tile cutter or wet saw
• Rubber mallet
• Grout
• Grout float
• Sponge
• Tape measure and pencil
• Level
• Chalk line

• Measure the room: Measure the dimensions of the room to determine how many tiles you'll need. Add 10-15% extra for cuts and waste.
• Dry layout: Lay out tiles without mortar to get a sense of the design and where cuts will be needed. Use a chalk line or pencil to mark the center of the room, then lay the tiles starting from the center outward.
• Plan for tile cuts: Ensure you won’t have tiny slivers of tiles along the walls. Adjust your layout to have larger cuts for a more professional finish.

• Mix the mortar: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix the thin-set mortar to a peanut butter-like consistency.
• Spread the mortar: Using a notched trowel, spread a small amount of mortar onto the subfloor, starting at the center of the room where you marked your lines. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to create ridges in the mortar.
• Work in small sections to avoid the mortar drying out before you can set the tiles.

• Set the tile: Press the first tile into the mortar, using a slight twisting motion to ensure a strong bond.
• Use spacers: Place tile spacers between each tile to maintain consistent grout lines. Continue laying tiles in rows or patterns based on your layout.
• Check alignment: Use a level to ensure the tiles are flat and even. If a tile is uneven, tap it gently with a rubber mallet to level it.
• Cut tiles: For edges or corners, use a tile cutter or wet saw to cut tiles to fit. Measure twice before cutting to avoid mistakes.

• Once all the tiles are laid, let the mortar cure for at least 24 hours (or as recommended by the manufacturer). Avoid walking on the tiles during this time to prevent shifting.

• Mix the grout: Follow the instructions to mix your grout. Choose a color that complements your tiles.
• Apply the grout: Using a grout float, spread the grout over the tiles at a 45-degree angle, pushing it into the joints between the tiles.
• Remove excess grout: Wipe off excess grout from the tile surface with a damp sponge, but don’t remove grout from the joints.
• Let it dry: Allow the grout to set for 15-30 minutes, then go over the tiles again with a damp sponge to remove any haze. Rinse the sponge frequently.

• Depending on the type of grout you use, you may need to seal it to protect against moisture and stains. Wait for the grout to cure (about 48-72 hours) before applying the sealant.

• After the grout has cured, do a final cleaning of the tile surface to remove any grout residue or haze. Buff the tiles with a dry cloth if necessary.
• Remove any remaining tile spacers and install transition strips or moldings where the tile meets other types of flooring.

Check for any grout gaps or uneven tiles. Fill in any grout joints that need attention and make any final adjustments. Allow the entire installation to set for several days before exposing it to heavy traffic or moisture.

• Work in small sections to keep the mortar from drying out.
• Check alignment frequently to ensure tiles remain straight and level.
• Clean as you go: Wipe away excess grout and mortar before it hardens, as it will be harder to clean later.